22 Comments
User's avatar
Detroit Watch Guy's avatar

Great essay and very valid points! Next one up would be great to list a few true Haute Horlogerie, I know a few but some of the folks would prefer to know too. Cheers

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Scaramanga's avatar

I don't know if you could call this definition as "true" just yet. Only time will tell and if enough people agree to it, it just might.

Honesty and disclosure are what really mater here. When I look in my drawer I see that the majority of my timepieces do not fall into this description of HH. Yet, I still love them. Think of it as cars. Some are mande for racing and others for crossing the desert. We all appreciate the differences and still like both for completely diferent reasons. 😉

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Talleyrand's avatar

You seem to avoid mentioning the usual suspects… VC, PP, AP…

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Scaramanga's avatar

I was trying to be nice for once... 😬

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SinnMaster's avatar

So by your definition the Omega Ed White 321 is haute horology. Nothing Rolex makes can make this claim. :)

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Brandon Skinner's avatar

A watch entirely assembled and regulated by one watchmaker isn’t really what he’s referring to. His definition includes the watchmaker crafting all its of its components as well.

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SinnMaster's avatar

Also he literally says “assembled,” twice!

“Now that I’m aware of the obvious, everything fell into place. The term “Haute” Horlogerie should be reserved for brands or manufacturers that meticulously assemble their watches by a single watchmaker from start to finish. This means that all watches produced from that atelier or manufacture undergo the same meticulous treatment, as they are all assembled by the same watchmaker.”

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SinnMaster's avatar

The only watch like this is the Grubel Forsey Hand Made 1. Unless you count the watchmaker working a CNC mill/lathe.

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Scaramanga's avatar

Yep. Going "old school" costs as much as a house...

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Scaramanga's avatar

No! That would cost insidious amounts of money and time. What I was referring to is the slow and gradual replacement of people with a production line.

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Scaramanga's avatar

Well, the point that I ak trying to make is that brans/manufactories, when they start using a production line it is like a junky trying Fentanyl just out of curiosity. Once you open that door, it's over. So in a way I am throwing the baby with the bath water. I know the entire thing has been irrevocably contaminated. Or do we know of an example in the watchmaking industry that has gone from a production line back to hand made?

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Dominique_Jahn's avatar

Yes, a thousand times yes

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Michael P's avatar

First, you denigrate 90% or more of watch brands, including some naming and shaming.

Next, you introduce your copyrighted HABO, yet fail to credit any watchmakers. Those who you feel produce great watches and deserve credit.

And to hammer home the hypocrisy, the whole article about the soul of handcraft is loaded with low effort, AI-generated images.

What’s this besides more criticism of luxury groups? It’s not even constructive. We know.

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Brandon Skinner's avatar

It’s one man’s definition of Haute Horlogerie, nothing more.

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Scaramanga's avatar

Did I just hammer a "fan boy's" brand and wasn't aware of it???

P.s. The AI imagery is for people that like you need to be kept entertained due to a clear reading comprehension deficit.

P.p.s. I SPECIFICALLY avoided mentioning any watchmaker (nor do I need to since the definition is self explanatory) in order NOT to look like yet another "shill" just like 90% of all watch media out there.

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Michael P's avatar

Wow, I expect some salt but not so much projection. Cool off, it makes it obvious how badly you dodged my question.

PS. If owning one watch from any of the listed brands out of 25 makes a fanboy then pitch me a tent!

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Scaramanga's avatar

"25 listed brands"? Again, READING COMPREHENSION.

P.s. Sorry "bro", gen-z here. I know you are not used to this but... enjoy.

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Michael P's avatar

I own 25 watches, of which one is from the four listed brands. Is that clearer?

I’m also gen z which puts you 0/3 on total airballs, but keep assuming whatever. It’s lowkey funny to me that you couldn’t be less correct.

Could also have just answered the question! 💀

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Scaramanga's avatar

Upssss, have not logged in here for some time. Yep, as much as it pains me I do remember you. You are the very definition of what has gone wrong since 2020. The very cancer horology has had to endure. Another uneducated idiot with a big mouth and a small brain.

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Sfwatchlover's avatar

An engaging and thought-provoking essay, as always, and I particularly enjoyed all the images. One question: How do you see the value of third-party certifications, such as the Geneva Seal, in evaluating Haute Horlogerie?

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Scaramanga's avatar

Thank you sir,

Remember that third-party certifications are only proof of "minimums". There are many watches out there without any of these certifications and amply surpass those.

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kingflum's avatar

Lofty expectations, but why not 🥃 🙏

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